I think it's panic that kills people.

They get winded and when they do go under, it's over. Like you said....I have been out there when there are high surf warnings and they are all over the news telling people to stay away and after 2-3 body surfs or Boogie Board rides, I'm WHOOPED! Why? Because the Ocean is pushing me away. I was out there with my boys one day and told them we could not MAKE ourselves drown. Every step was a wave pushing us HARD back to the shore.